Unfortunately I didn't take photos when I added the dunkelgelb camo, but I can tell you I did it using yellow tac (I hear white tac it less tacky so less likely to pull up your base coat when removing) rolled into sausage shapes and placed gently on the hull and manipulated into shape. It's best to have a rough sketch of your camo pattern before beginning the procedure.
Once the 'octo-legs' were in place I removed the yellow tac and went in with a paint brush to add the little red-oxide circles. When this stage was complete, I added a coat of satin varnish; it's very important to give your model a protective coat in between each weathering process, so as to protect the paint and all your hard work beneath.
In the photo above my Hetzer has been treated to a filter and a pin-wash using oil paints to bring out panel lines and other details. I couldn't add the side skirts as yet because I needed to work behind the tracks and also on the road wheels. However, what I did was to temporarily fix the skirts so they could be weathered to match the hull.
In the photo above I'm adding oil weathering to the hull. I added dots of my chosen colour to the areas where they were needed, took a flat brush dampened with spirits, and then gently dragged the paint vertically. Sometimes it's possible to unintentionally remove all the paint, so just add more paint and repeat the process. I was aiming for a faded appearance.
The wheels were weathered at a later stage as the tracks still needed working on.
As well as fading, I also added some individual streaks of dirt and rust, working small dots of oil with a small round brush dampened with odourless spirits.
In the photo above you can see there's still more weathering needed, especially in the track department.
See part 4 HERE